![fastrawviewer 1.3.3 fastrawviewer 1.3.3](https://insmac.org/uploads/posts/2017-08/1501738156_reiboot.png)
I was working with an image where I needed very precise control of small tonal ranges. Many RAW tools will handle DNGs, TIFFs and JPGs. I’ll suggest another workaround: chain the processing with another image processing tool. People contributed some workarounds, and I have been trying out a number of them. Of course, I have been a bad boy, too, and added my own comments to the color space discussion.īack to the original subject: I wanted this thread to help PL users understand how the selective tone control works, but also to discuss workarounds for any deficiencies. Hmm…I could have sworn the topic here was “Understanding Selective Tone control”. So the camera setting adobeRGB or sRGB has only influence on my rawfile proces if i set export in “Original”.
#Fastrawviewer 1.3.3 driver#
(which is also sRGB but from win10 or my driver of my videocard i suppose.) or current profile for the display device. It’s always in AdobeRGB (1998) and down sample colorspace to display setting: I remember again, DxO has no preset on there work(color)space like other applications: In this case i don’t have any export settings/control? only resolution (300ppi whic… These are only when downsampling is checkboxed and i think i don’t go that road as you suggested not to do. if i am done selecting where can i upload or give you the link for uploading? I will select some examples:(first i re-edit them with my last knowledge of DxO PL to avoid beginnersfaulty’s.) Well i was convinced you did but needed to be sure.
#Fastrawviewer 1.3.3 windows#
Where can i find more detailed information about exporting Jpegs out of DxO PL? DxO PhotoLab Windows If I cared about SOOC, I’d underexpose all my raw files. You could use UniWB for that, or some cameras offer the possibility of calibrating the zebras so that they indicate raw green channel clipping (as confirmed by FastRawViewer, RawDigger or RawTherapee).
![fastrawviewer 1.3.3 fastrawviewer 1.3.3](https://www.fastrawviewer.com/sites/fastrawviewer.com/files/styles/extra_large/public/FastRawViewer-1-3-9-start-without-filename.png)
Do experiment with this before settling on sRGB jpegs for ever.īut I don’t like making those kinds of decisions at the moment of capture – that’s why I shoot for raw, which means I have to adjust my exposure parameters not on the basis of the jpeg preview but on the basis of how my camera really meters. If you push your sRGB jpg in PhotoLab too much, you’ll see things like banding pretty quickly, much quicker than with Adobe RGB jpgs. If you are sure you are never going to print them in a decent lab, and if you’re sure that you won’t have a wide gamut monitor in the future, then I guess sticking to sRGB is fine, as long as you don’t do any crazy edits on them. It seems you use the in-camera creative styles (picture styles, etc.) for your out-of-camera jpegs. Which can’t preview adobe (i think) (because i edit oocjpegs only when i use creative which don’t have rawfiles i just let it on sRGB it is thus better to set camera on adobe?). 1 adobergb for jpeg, i knew that it didn’t matter for raw but i was set oocjpeg on srgb because of the preview in camera lcd.